PJ.Antique Jewelry (Vintage Tiffany)
DATE: 3/10. 3/11. 3/12
Chapter.1 Encounter with Tiffany
I didn't have a very good image of Tiffany.
In the early 1970s, Tiffany opened a store in Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi, and feminine Tiffany designed by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso became popular in Japan.
"Gifts for women are Tiffany & Co."
This was the image of Tiffany in Japan until a while ago and the reason why I wasn't interested.
When I went to America for the first time, I was surprised to learn that some salespeople at Ralph Lauren in New York were wearing ID bracelets and signet rings and that they were Tiffany & Co.
And the first Tiffany I bought was the black and scratched Tiffany ID bracelet that I happened to find at the second shop during my stay.
(At that time, I remember that they were sold at flea markets and second shops at prices that are unimaginable today, and were treated roughly.)
Then, out of curiosity, I did some research and learned that Tiffany & Co. had a status in American rappers and street culture. After that, I was fascinated by the long history and old Tiffany products, partly due to my love of vintage.
I gathered information as well as items around flea markets, second shops, relic sales, etc.
At that time, select shops in Japan had a vintage Tiffany category, but there were a lot of cute items from the 80s and 90s, and to be honest, I wasn't attracted to them.
I want to spread more masculine old Tiffany in Japan. I thought that was the reason I started purchasing.
Chapter.2 Attraction of Tiffany Values
I think the long history of Tiffany & Co. (hereafter Tiffany & Co.) and the design of jewelry are attractive.
Founded in 1837, the company has been producing Tiffany products for a very long time.
And Tiffany jewelry is fashionable, forward-thinking, innovative, and relentlessly adhering to timeless modern design.
Silverware became the catalyst for popularizing Tiffany products, and it was the decorative arts and high precision that was recognized there. Tiffany & Co. has a firm position as an American jewelry brand with a long history, and I think this is the result of over 150 years of craftsmanship craftsmanship that has been created by craftsmen who have been thinking about designs that match the times.
When it comes to Tiffany jewelry designers, famous designers such as Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, and Jean Schlumberger come to mind.
Depending on the design, the works of the above designers belong to the category of old or vintage and leave wonderful things in the world, but the Tiffany jewelry that I find more attractive is the designer who is not well known in Japan and the product that is not known to the world. There are many works of creators who have done
Chapter.3 History of Tiffany
・Japanesque Tiffany swept the American jewelry market in the 1870s and 1880s. Edward C. Moore was the designer of Tiffany's around this time.
When Japan opened its doors to the world in the 1850s, Japanese art such as Japanese metalwork and ceramics spread to the West. The design had a great influence on Tiffany & Company at the time, and Japanesque Tiffany became a masterpiece of the 1870s.
・Vintage signet rings and college rings that are popular in Japan. There is no record of the designer in charge of these works. However, there are also a huge number of drawings (design drawings) and some that can be confirmed with the signature of the creator who seems to have been involved.
・Tiffany wins a gold medal in the jewelry section at the World Exposition of 1875 and expands its business to Europe.
Along with that, the production of products will be done not only in the United States but also in European countries. Europe is mainly famous for silverware and pottery production, but from around 1930, European jewelry gradually increased.
What is interesting here is that in many cases designers and workshops in the country of manufacture are involved. Tiffany jewelry made in France includes items made in the workshop of André Vasotto, the designer who was in charge of jewelry for Van Cleef Arpels and Boucheron, and Tiffany jewelry made in Denmark has a close relationship with George Johnsen. , designed by Andreas Mikkelsen and Hans Hansen.
The designer's color has a great influence on those jewelry, and there are those that are very similar to the original designs released in the same era, and those that have the exact same design but only the engraving has been changed to the Tiffany name. In addition, there are Tiffany jewelry manufactured in various countries such as West Germany, Finland, and England, but each has its own unique design.
・We chose a factory that matched the products that were manufactured in the United States and produced the jewelry. In famous places, we commissioned domestically famous companies such as R. Blackinton & Co, Thomas & company, and Later & Sons.
Throughout Tiffany's long history, there are many designers, companies, small workshops and artisans involved in making things. This may have been a business-like manufacturing, not only in our own country and in-house production.
However, from the point of view of vintage jewelry, as a result, there is not as much production as today, and there is a rich design volume and historical background that other brands do not have. I think that I built a standing position.
Chapter.4 Thoughts on Jewelry
I think that wearing accessories has a meaning for each person.
In my opinion, the ideal of vintage jewelry is one that can be used together for a long time.
It's not just a fashion item, it's like your own icon.
Jewelry lasts longer than clothing, shoes, and glasses, and silver and gold can be repaired. What is important here is your own sense of value.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying (older is better) (rare is better). In this day and age, you can get a lot of information on the internet, but on the other hand, information tends to be scarce and has a sense of value. Know yourself and choose what you really like.
I think this is also the fun of vintage jewelry, including vintage Tiffany.